KEJI

KEJI

Our final camping trip for this year was a trek not far down the road to Kejimkujik National Park. Kejimkujik.  That’s a mouthful isn’t it?  Pronounced “Ke – jima – koo – jik”  and translated from the Mi’kmaw to mean ‘little fairies’, it’s simply referred to as ‘Keji’ by locals.

Keji

Spreading over 400 sq km , it’s a mecca for hikers, canoeists and kayakers , bird watchers and campers, designated a dark sky preserve and the seaside portion is  a wilderness protection area. Over 80% of Kejimkujik is accessible by canoe or hiking only with 47 backcountry camping sites spread out over 17 lakes and connected by multiple rivers and streams.

En Route

We chose this as our last adventure at this time of year to see the fall colours at their optimum and we weren’t disappointed.  We expected it to be chilly so came prepared with lots of extra layers, gloves, toques and wooly socks, because as a friend of mine says ‘any fool can be cold’. But it was anything but cold. More like a moderate summer day with mostly sun and 20 deg temperatures.  Nights were cool so firing up the camper heater for a few minutes took the humidity down.  And of course there was the traditional camp fire with toasted marshmallows.

Colours of Fall

At Keji, the serviced sites are with electricity only so this was our first time dealing with no water or sewer hookup…a kind of modified ‘boon-docking’….four nights/five days to see just what we could manage with using our internal storage tanks, and it gave us three full days to explore. Each site at Jeremy’s Bay is very roomy too, strategically placed so very private and view of neighbours is minimal.  Plus there is a definitely advantage of camping this time of year. Even over the weekend there were very few visitors.

Front Door View

After setting up and enjoying a quiet supper, we took a walk around Kejimkujik Lake just before sunset, returning to light our evening campfire and discuss where to go the next day.

Keji Lake

 

Keji Lake

The choice for the day was Kejimkujik Seaside Park which was an hour and a half drive from the main camp ground. The trail to the beach through colourful bogs was a 2.8 hike ending at the stretch of beautiful white sand of St Catherine River Beach.

Seaside Bog

 

Keji Seaside Park

 

Keji Seaside Park

 

Keji Seaside Park

Day three was spent cycling around the park.  The trails and roadways are easy and safe for the most part so we explored for the better part of the day, picnicked at Merrymakedge Beach then cycled back to our camp site for a respectable 30 km ride.

Merrymakedge Beach

 

Mi’kmaw Encampment Site

 

Jake’s Landing

Kejimkujik Lake is fairly large and dotted with small islands each with designated tenting sites.  While we were eating our picnic lunch we saw a young couple, with two young kids and two cats on leashes piling their belongings into a canoe presumably heading out for an overnight adventure to one of these islands.  Imagine, two adults, two kids, two cats one canoe and  all that gear.  So brave!..or extremely patient…or both.

We continued on the bike path along the Mercy River then headed back to camp.  When one reaches ‘a certain age’, simple is so much better, don’t you think?

Mercy River

For those who prefer a little something out of the ordinary, this park offers Oasis Pods, a cross between a tent and pop-up camper.  How fun is that?  Imagine snuggling in bed at night with a view of the stars because this park is also a designated dark sky preserve with almost zero light pollution.

Sleeping Pod

On our final full day we braved the newest Keji trail, Ukme’k, which means twisted in Mi’kmaw, a 12.6 km medium level winding hiking trail along the Mercy River.  Near the end of the trek we both realized that 5 to 6 km is about our maximum for daily hiking.  Sore knees, sore feet and ankles and we were more than ready to head back to camp for cocktails laced with a couple of ibuprofen.

Ukme’k Trail

 

Ukme’k Trail

 

Ukme’k Trail

Well, we made it to our fifth day away.  Water was easy to conserve, having learned many good lessons after seven years of boating with limited resources. Potable water was available to fill our tank at the park entrance and there were filling stations throughout the park every few 100 feet as well as super clean toilet and shower facilities.  Our grey water was at capacity as was the black water tank but we easily pulled through the dump station our our way out of the park.  F purchased a back-up portable waste tank for a ‘just in case’ moment but we found we didn’t need it for this trip.

Portable Poo Pot

 

Homeward Bound

The trip home was beautiful if just a bit more muted in colour.  We think we may have chosen the best week for leaf gazing now that we’ve had a couple of days of rain and wind and any of the leaves have fallen or turned brown.

On reflection, we both feel Fundy was our favourite place overall.  Five Islands and Keji tie for second place with the Ovens a close third.  Just four outings for this our first year with our little turtle on wheels.  There are already plans in the works for next year but for now RED II is parked in our driveway, unloading and cleaning underway and appointment made for fall inspection and winterizing, after which she’ll be put to bed until next spring.

Back at our little home by the sea we begin to prepare for guests from away. We are so very thankful that for the most part we have remained healthy throughout this last couple of years of pandemic restrictions and that with a sprinkle of caution we can begin to welcome friends and family who have been eager to experience some east coast hospitality.

….peace and love…

FIVE ISLANDS

FIVE ISLANDS

Our second camping adventure was even more enjoyable that the first, if that’s possible.  After seeing the amazing rock formations and sea caves of the Ovens Nature Park, F bought himself a book on local geology.  As it turned out this new location at Five Islands Provincial Park had so much more to offer.

Site #25

Stories of  Mi’kmaq lore , combined with the world’s highest tides and rocks formed when dinosaurs roamed the earth made this trip an adventure to remember.

Five Islands

Firstly, a little background about the legendary Wabanaki god-like figure, Glooscap, who  made his home in the Minas Basin of Cobequid Bay. As the story goes, when he slept, Nova Scotia was his bed and Prince Edward Island was his pillow. He lived here, admiring the beauty of the lands, until one day he found his medicine garden destroyed. The culprit? A Canadian beaver! Glooscap was understandably upset, and threw giant clods of mud at the mischievous and disrespectful beaver. The dam was smashed, and water began to flow freely. The mud, sticks, and stones created five islands that emerged in the rapidly rising tides. As for the beaver? He was trapped on one of the islands, and turned into gold.

Next, a little about this unique area, geologically speaking. Nova Scotia was once part of northern African and northern Europe  on the super-continent Pangea. If you like, here is a short but fairly complete article about the geological origins: Origins of Nova Scotia.

Walking the Ocean Floor

Impressive thirteen metre tides with up to three kilometres of retreating waters meant we could walk the ocean floor and  explore the shoreline safely for  several of hours.

From the Days of the Dinosaurs

Retreating Tides

Jurassic Period Formations

This imposing formation of eroded basalt lava flow caps and exposed orange-red sandstone  divided by a distinct fault line is only visible by land when the tide is out. And what a great vantage spot for us…on top of that cliff was our camping spot.

The Old Wife formation

The Old Wife appears to be a mere bump in the water when tides are in but at low tide we could walk her perimeter.

Hiking

As usual we explored up and down country roads, visiting tiny villages and local attractions.

Geological Museum

Five Island Light House

Down the road from the park we found a small general store…always fun to stop at country stores isn’t it?  You never know what treasures you will find.  Cooked freshly caught lobster and a local award-winning cheese called Dragon’s Breath (Dutchman Cheese) created a few kilometres from here with some freshly baked bread made for the perfect supper.

Evening Feast

Another day of rock-hounding led us to Wosson Bluff, yet another geo site of the UNESCO designated Fundy Geoparks.

Wosson Bluff

At 8:21 on our last evening we toasted the summer solstice with a tot of rum for F…mine, Irish whiskey, lit a blazing camp fire, ate far too many toasted marshmallows and watched the sun set over Cobequid Bay.

Sunset on the Bay 2021.21.2021

In a short while we should be able to tell you about our next trip which may even take us to a different shore of our Nova Scotia home…another new adventure for the crew of RED II.

…Peace and love…

BAIE ÉTERNITÉ – The Hike

BAIE ÉTERNITÉ – The Hike

Today we took Ballon de Rouge ashore to experience some land-based adventure…

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Perfect ‘FREE’ Anchorage

There is a trail in the Parc Nationale du Fijord-du-Saguenay that runs to the top of the peak overlooking the Baie Éternité.  We took it.  Sign translation: Intermediate to Difficult.  Keep that in mind while I continue…

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The Trail

We stopped for a little rest by the waterfall we had heard during the night.

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Waterfall

…and again for a rest under the Bloody Big Rock.

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Bloody Big Rock

Frost during many sessions of  thawing and freezing has loosened this gigantic boulder.

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The Repose

I struggled with the climb but kept pushing.  My fitness level is certainly not what it used to be.  Note to self: I must design an onboard program to improve.  Really, I must!

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Time to Stop

…but at .3 km from the Bellevue (the stop at the almost sumit for pretty pictures) I started seeing rainbow auras in my left peripheral vision.  Time for me to stop!!!  François continued up the last part of the trail and made me promise not to talk to strangers until he returned.

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The very Bellevue!

The shot!

If you look carefully, you can just barely see R.E.D. anchored peacefully in the bay and Ballon de Rouge on the low tide shore.