Adventure by the very nature of the word itself indicates challenges, at times hardships and exhilarating experiences. This little adventure of ours has been amazing but for sure it’s not been all pretty sunsets, cockpit cocktails, and rainbows.
The waters of the Saint Lawrence are now registering close to freezing temperatures and night time temperatures, not much more. Anchorages of any sort, good or bad will be limited from here on in. We could take the easy route and stop at marinas each day but we equipped R.E.D. so that we could be more autonomous and that’s what we are determined to do.
So we’re now at another crossroad where we are evaluating whether to continue on to the Gaspé or whether to head back up river. Yet another night of rock and roll at anchor. Another night of very little sleep. Then the weather report….gale warning.
So this morning we hauled anchor and moved on up river to a little bay that looked better protected from the oncoming storm, well marked with channel buoys, even recommended in our 2016 Guide Nautique.
But after the first two red and green markers, water levels drastically dropped. Dagger board raised, rudders lifted, engine tilted. Crunch…a small crunch but a crunch..a rock in the middle of the marked channel. Tricky manoeuvre by François and we were out of there back to last night’s anchorage. Nothing major damaged but it was another hit to our not-so-sunny mood.
Talking it Over
We pulled ourselves together. Captain installed a couple of our enclosure panels while I made lunch, then in relative comfort we devised our plan. There are still a few things we want to see farther up river. We will treat ourselves to a marina, take a heavenly shower, do some laundry that doesn’t include my cockpit scrub bag, and meet up with friends in a few days. It’s those little things after all that make a difference.
A friend reminds us that ‘a smooth sea never made a skillful sailor’ and I’ll add to that ‘our glass is neither half empty nor half full. It’s refillable”
Here’s to a full glass!
Today we took Ballon de Rouge ashore to experience some land-based adventure…
Perfect ‘FREE’ Anchorage
There is a trail in the Parc Nationale du Fijord-du-Saguenay that runs to the top of the peak overlooking the Baie Éternité. We took it. Sign translation: Intermediate to Difficult. Keep that in mind while I continue…
We stopped for a little rest by the waterfall we had heard during the night.
…and again for a rest under the Bloody Big Rock.
Bloody Big Rock
Frost during many sessions of thawing and freezing has loosened this gigantic boulder.
I struggled with the climb but kept pushing. My fitness level is certainly not what it used to be. Note to self: I must design an onboard program to improve. Really, I must!
Time to Stop
…but at .3 km from the Bellevue (the stop at the almost sumit for pretty pictures) I started seeing rainbow auras in my left peripheral vision. Time for me to stop!!! François continued up the last part of the trail and made me promise not to talk to strangers until he returned.
The very Bellevue!
If you look carefully, you can just barely see R.E.D. anchored peacefully in the bay and Ballon de Rouge on the low tide shore.
Here we are still trying our best to catch a fish…any fish would do really.
My Catch of a Lifetime
…so François fished while we sailed with a sweat soft wind at our back.
Anchorage today was Baie Éternité.
It was a bit of a challenge finding the perfect spot to drop the anchor because of the extreme water depth so close to the rock face combined with rising and lowering tides. But Captain, as always, found a secure place to stop.
R.E.D. at Rest
His choice comment of the day: ‘R.E.D. resting between Les Boules. Nothing could make me happier’. (you can refer to yesterday’s post for an explanation of Les Boules)
Catch of the Day
…and the catch of the day came from a can (of Salmon),some fresh provisions and of course bread from Tadoussac. Tomorrow we try again.
(recipe for my easy boat chowder here)