FIFTY SHADES OF BLUE GREY

FIFTY SHADES OF BLUE GREY

So sorry for our absense the past few days.  We have been having lots of fun but continue having challenges of finding safe anchorages and a consistent internet signal since leaving Rimouski Marina.

Keeping with our off-grid focus it would have been very difficult to move farther east.  We have talked with locals who have been really helpful with their wealth of experience and they confirmed that unless we are willing to stop each night at a marina our pushing farther up the Saint-Lawrence would be very challenging.  With that in mind and with a good deal of discussing we are heading westward to find places missed along the way and maybe spending more time at some of our favourite anchorages.

So moving on with the story, we left Rimouski Marina under heavy fog which disipated near noon, giving us a few glimpses of the yachts of the Quebec-Satin Malo race.  We had the perfect front row seat at our anchorage in Le Bic Harbour as they passed.

 

Havre du Pic anchorage

Havre du Bic anchorage

 

Sunset Over Le Bic

Sunset Over Le Bic

For the next night we anchored across from Trois-Pistoles at Îles aux Basques, a place used by Basques whalers during the 16th century.  It’s now a bird migration sanctuary and preserved historic site.

Fin Whale

Fin Whale

…and while I’m on the topic of whales, now that we are in deep waters (150 feet +) we’ve had many sitings of whales, belugas and the ever-present grey seals.

Seals and Balugas

Seals and Belugas

From time to time we would see what looked like flying penquins or what François referred to as flying torpedos and what we now know are razorbills, a penguin relative. One of the things on my ‘to see’ list was a photo op of a puffin but this ‘tordedo’ bird will do for now.

Razorbill

Razorbill

On our ever-growing list of things to see and do during this adventure was to see the Îles Verte Lighthouse, the oldest lighthouse on the Saint Lawrence.  The grey foggy day didn’t allow for a very clear image but there you have it, completed in 1809 and still guiding our way through the mist.

At Île Rouge the wind was perfect for taking us the rest of the way across the last few miles to Tadoussac.

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The Crossing

 

BFB

BFB

With limited visibilty we were very thankful for radar to guide us past the big boats which loomed up on the screen very quickly as a big yellow blob.

Île Rouge

Île Rouge

We are once again safely anchored  in Tadoussac Harbour waiting for a good weather window to allow us to continue westward.

Shades of Blue Grey

Shades of Blue Grey

 

THE CROSSING

THE CROSSING

We’ve officially been on the way 20 days, 17 of which have been completely off-grid and at anchor, with 418 nautical miles covered so far.  There have been challenges but so far nothing we haven’t been able to handle.

Les Escoumins

Les Escoumins

Last night at anchor in Les Escoumins was our second worst night, not so much because of adverse weather but because of wind orientation and through 3 tidal changes we were tossed from 30 ° port to 30 ° starboard until just before dawn.  You know it’s bad when you have to hold on in your berth,.  But yet again our brave little R.E.D. and the mighty Bruce anchor held tight.  I guess we have to expect there will be times such a this and those nights at calm anchorages the reward.

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Ocean-going Freighters

But today is a whole fresh new day with fair weather forecast.  Time to make our way across the Saint Lawrence River from the north shore to the south, second coffee and PB&J in hand we hauled anchor and set off occasionally sharing the way with the BFB’s.  Even with moderate winds the swells were impressive.

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Wrapped, Strapped and Tethered

We would surf the crest of the wave then drop down and disappear into the trough, then up to the crest again.  Water temperature 5.8 ° C.  Air temperature not much higher.

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Purple Lips But Happy

Over five hours at times reaching 7 knots we’ve arrived at our anchorage for the night in a cozy little bay at Île du Bic, a protected wild life sanctuary.

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Bird Sanctuary

 

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Île du Bic

 

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Entrance to Anchorage

If this location and weather proves favourable we may just hang out here for a day or two exploring.  If not, there is a mere 5-6 nautical miles to the south shore.