After a very feisty day at anchor (yes, even in a secure bay it can get really rough), we planned our retreat from Tadoussac. First a stop at the marina for gas and to replenish our water supply. $10 gave us 3 hours of service (electricity and all the marina had to offer) and Sean, the dock master’s tips of the day: grocery store delivers free of charge and there is a fresh market within walking distance. Best find, eggs that won’t need refrigeration and so much fresh produce.
We left Tadoussace Harbour at the end of high tide…
Past the rippled currents of the Saguenay River…
Saguenay meets Saint Lawrence
…into the mix of water densities between the fresh water of the Saguenay and the salty Saint Lawrence.
With fair weather forecast and favourable winds our target anchorage for the day was back to Anse aux Basques. We feel so fortunate sailing along and seeing all the whale sitings.
At anchor I let loose my best whale watching music…
Whales in Motion
We bathed in a fresh 13 ° C water and we honestly can’t remember when we haven’t had to sail in tuques and polar fleece and when our cabin has been this warm and dry.
So sorry for our absense the past few days. We have been having lots of fun but continue having challenges of finding safe anchorages and a consistent internet signal since leaving Rimouski Marina.
Keeping with our off-grid focus it would have been very difficult to move farther east. We have talked with locals who have been really helpful with their wealth of experience and they confirmed that unless we are willing to stop each night at a marina our pushing farther up the Saint-Lawrence would be very challenging. With that in mind and with a good deal of discussing we are heading westward to find places missed along the way and maybe spending more time at some of our favourite anchorages.
So moving on with the story, we left Rimouski Marina under heavy fog which disipated near noon, giving us a few glimpses of the yachts of the Quebec-Satin Malo race. We had the perfect front row seat at our anchorage in Le Bic Harbour as they passed.
Havre du Bic anchorage
Sunset Over Le Bic
For the next night we anchored across from Trois-Pistoles at Îles aux Basques, a place used by Basques whalers during the 16th century. It’s now a bird migration sanctuary and preserved historic site.
…and while I’m on the topic of whales, now that we are in deep waters (150 feet +) we’ve had many sitings of whales, belugas and the ever-present grey seals.
Seals and Belugas
From time to time we would see what looked like flying penquins or what François referred to as flying torpedos and what we now know are razorbills, a penguin relative. One of the things on my ‘to see’ list was a photo op of a puffin but this ‘tordedo’ bird will do for now.
On our ever-growing list of things to see and do during this adventure was to see the Îles Verte Lighthouse, the oldest lighthouse on the Saint Lawrence. The grey foggy day didn’t allow for a very clear image but there you have it, completed in 1809 and still guiding our way through the mist.
At Île Rouge the wind was perfect for taking us the rest of the way across the last few miles to Tadoussac.
With limited visibilty we were very thankful for radar to guide us past the big boats which loomed up on the screen very quickly as a big yellow blob.
We are once again safely anchored in Tadoussac Harbour waiting for a good weather window to allow us to continue westward.
Shades of Blue Grey
As a follow-up to our post from the other day (story here) about sailing past Sainte-Flavie to catch site of Marcel Gagnon’s statues in the tidal waters….
We now have the land perpsective, visited with friends today…
Fun with Friends
…and what better way to initiate our visitors to the fine shores of the Saint Lawrence then to treat them to their first feed of real Quebec poutine. Not the traditional fries, gravy and cheese curd but a feast of three cheese sauce served with fresh shrimp from the village of Matane.
Poutine aux Crevettes de Matane